missed this piece in our presence in Serbia after the war.
was missing, to try to re-establish historical truths, irrefutable timeliness, certainty of doubt.
was missing, because you also know the others' solidarity with a people who were victims of injustice. It still is.
was missing, to try to re-establish historical truths, irrefutable timeliness, certainty of doubt.
was missing, because you also know the others' solidarity with a people who were victims of injustice. It still is.
Thus, having known and worked with Gilberto Vlaić and its association not only bombs but candy, "we're going to learn one of the voices prep 
plowed the counter information on former Yugoslavia ... Enrico Vigna of " SoS Yugoslavia."
from Kragujevac, where we arrived on a night that seems to announce proleče , spring, and not Zima, winter, early in the morning of November 24 in the direction of Kosovska Mitrovica.
are seven in the van. There are Veljović Rajka, historical interpreter coordinator of international adoptions and a representative office for years, even in Italy, the union of " Zastava" from Kragujevac, the "Balkan Fiat " militant witness of his misfortunes, the last in order chronological " the advent " Fiat's Marchionne (see the precious minutes of Gilberto Vlaić) is ... Jasmina Brajkovic, the association of multiple sclerosis ... and there are Milii Kragujevac, Darko, the son of Jasmina driving the van and Boris, the son of Rajka. And then there is us, Enrico Vigna, to "SoS Yugoslavia", which leads to a conclusion two initiatives in support of the association of multiple sclerosis Mitrovica and in support of missing children through the Fathers of Decani in Kosovo ( SoS Kosovo). And there's me, Alessandro Di Meo, for "Un Ponte per ... " for ten years engaged in initiatives of solidarity with the refugees from Kosovo, those who fled " the wrong side", as we said in a leaflet 1999, the part where there were no televisions to wait ... that I joined to see how they move even more reality in Kosovo. Kosovo, however, ghettoized Serbs, criminalized, vilified, insulted, robbed of their land, their memory and their roots. A rise
Mitrovica with us Zarko, and Ilija Voikan, the local association multiple sclerosis. We continue in ten, and then, escorted by a police patrol in Kosovo at a time in Kosovo. Once over the bridge on the IBA, not become infamous, but
another, parallel, a few hundred meters away.
visited the Patriarchate of Pec, where before long, will be sworn in on a new patriarch to replace the late Pavle. Dobrila not meet madam, I know, very busy with large groups of visitors. The listen from a distance, describe the three churches that make up the patriarchy.
Among many unexpected problems created by the patrols of police escorts who will take turns Kosovo (Albanian police are not happy to let us know how to spare) that will lose time, we arrive at Decani, which is already evening. On the streets of Pec, stuck in traffic, the patrol operates the siren to go first drawing in this way, the curiosity of people who suffered in the street or passing cars, identifying plaque Serbian begins the work of ridicule and threats, and made a rude gesture screams.
However, we arrive at the destination, but not before the sneaky attempt foiled patrol to bring us back to Mitrovica, complaining about a lack of communication, promptly thwarted by the delivery of correct documentation submitted in good time " authority" in Kosovo ...
There are many people, the monastery of Decani, the tables are full of food for guests, tomorrow, November 24, is the feast of Sveti Stefan Decanski, founder of the monastery the king, revered as a saint. In practice, their Slavic. For this reason we can not sleep at the monastery. About two hundred people from from Serbia, but not limited to, literally took it by storm, and it is really effective. We will see, however, the function of the six, hypnotic and magical atmosphere in the evening, discovering that some of our soldiers committed to guarding the monastery are now not very orthodox. On the one hand I understand them. Come on a mission to continue the "work " initiated by NATO and its bombs, they find themselves in the midst of contradictions so evident that it can not avoid emotional involvement to those that were described as enemies. And for some, the involvement was manifested in this way. Indeed, there is something in the air of fascinating, bewitching, of wraparound.
plowed the counter information on former Yugoslavia ... Enrico Vigna of " SoS Yugoslavia." from Kragujevac, where we arrived on a night that seems to announce proleče , spring, and not Zima, winter, early in the morning of November 24 in the direction of Kosovska Mitrovica.
are seven in the van. There are Veljović Rajka, historical interpreter coordinator of international adoptions and a representative office for years, even in Italy, the union of " Zastava" from Kragujevac, the "Balkan Fiat " militant witness of his misfortunes, the last in order chronological " the advent " Fiat's Marchionne (see the precious minutes of Gilberto Vlaić) is ... Jasmina Brajkovic, the association of multiple sclerosis ... and there are Milii Kragujevac, Darko, the son of Jasmina driving the van and Boris, the son of Rajka. And then there is us, Enrico Vigna, to "SoS Yugoslavia", which leads to a conclusion two initiatives in support of the association of multiple sclerosis Mitrovica and in support of missing children through the Fathers of Decani in Kosovo ( SoS Kosovo). And there's me, Alessandro Di Meo, for "Un Ponte per ... " for ten years engaged in initiatives of solidarity with the refugees from Kosovo, those who fled " the wrong side", as we said in a leaflet 1999, the part where there were no televisions to wait ... that I joined to see how they move even more reality in Kosovo. Kosovo, however, ghettoized Serbs, criminalized, vilified, insulted, robbed of their land, their memory and their roots. A rise
Mitrovica with us Zarko, and Ilija Voikan, the local association multiple sclerosis. We continue in ten, and then, escorted by a police patrol in Kosovo at a time in Kosovo. Once over the bridge on the IBA, not become infamous, but
another, parallel, a few hundred meters away. visited the Patriarchate of Pec, where before long, will be sworn in on a new patriarch to replace the late Pavle. Dobrila not meet madam, I know, very busy with large groups of visitors. The listen from a distance, describe the three churches that make up the patriarchy.
Among many unexpected problems created by the patrols of police escorts who will take turns Kosovo (Albanian police are not happy to let us know how to spare) that will lose time, we arrive at Decani, which is already evening. On the streets of Pec, stuck in traffic, the patrol operates the siren to go first drawing in this way, the curiosity of people who suffered in the street or passing cars, identifying plaque Serbian begins the work of ridicule and threats, and made a rude gesture screams.
However, we arrive at the destination, but not before the sneaky attempt foiled patrol to bring us back to Mitrovica, complaining about a lack of communication, promptly thwarted by the delivery of correct documentation submitted in good time " authority" in Kosovo ...
There are many people, the monastery of Decani, the tables are full of food for guests, tomorrow, November 24, is the feast of Sveti Stefan Decanski, founder of the monastery the king, revered as a saint. In practice, their Slavic. For this reason we can not sleep at the monastery. About two hundred people from from Serbia, but not limited to, literally took it by storm, and it is really effective. We will see, however, the function of the six, hypnotic and magical atmosphere in the evening, discovering that some of our soldiers committed to guarding the monastery are now not very orthodox. On the one hand I understand them. Come on a mission to continue the "work " initiated by NATO and its bombs, they find themselves in the midst of contradictions so evident that it can not avoid emotional involvement to those that were described as enemies. And for some, the involvement was manifested in this way. Indeed, there is something in the air of fascinating, bewitching, of wraparound.
I also light candles in the chandelier, lower strictly for the dead, top for the living, where the plot to keep the flames burning. But my antibodies, basically atheists seek ways to defend themselves, even if the challenge is very demanding.
I be able to meet rapidly Andrej father, who speaks Italian well and will be in Italy from November 30 to accompany his father Teodosije, primary figure of the Orthodox Church in Kosovo, with which I agree to an appointment. There is determination to move our intervention in favor of remaining Serbs, and in this the role of fathers is very central to Decani.
Late in the evening, after having enjoyed a bowl of soup hot vegetables, dell'aivar (grilled peppers, crushed and put under vacuum), good rice and red wine, proffered as a ritual of celebration, we will be forced, against our (stock is waiting for us outside, on time), to to return to Mitrovica, where we will sleep.
The next day, November 24, Tuesday, we will go, always in Mitrovica, in a kind of market with small shops and some stall apparently improvised on the streets of the north which, however, is run by Albanians. Serbs go there to do " shopping," because things are cheap. Buy socks, made in Prizren, while women in our group, fatally, lost in the shops.
In this part, surrounded by red flags with the two-headed eagle and the ever-present flags stars and stripes ... maybe in honor of the father of the Kosovar Albanians, Serbs and Albanians ... Bill Clinton seem to live today. And cars that pass, the new Kosovo Albanian number plates, number plates of the old Serbian Kosovo with Serbian number plates or registration plates of Serbia without license plates, because registered somewhere and somehow ... or simply because they are unmarked taxi, and through continuous bridges on the IBA does not want to risk too ... cars passing him to confirm.
It would instinctively go the other way, the Albanian, but the thing is considered risky and should be avoided. Strange, though, or maybe not ... that Serbs can not go the other way, crossing bridges on IBA, as here, on the contrary, the Albanians live and do business!
I be able to meet rapidly Andrej father, who speaks Italian well and will be in Italy from November 30 to accompany his father Teodosije, primary figure of the Orthodox Church in Kosovo, with which I agree to an appointment. There is determination to move our intervention in favor of remaining Serbs, and in this the role of fathers is very central to Decani.
Late in the evening, after having enjoyed a bowl of soup hot vegetables, dell'aivar (grilled peppers, crushed and put under vacuum), good rice and red wine, proffered as a ritual of celebration, we will be forced, against our (stock is waiting for us outside, on time), to to return to Mitrovica, where we will sleep.
The next day, November 24, Tuesday, we will go, always in Mitrovica, in a kind of market with small shops and some stall apparently improvised on the streets of the north which, however, is run by Albanians. Serbs go there to do " shopping," because things are cheap. Buy socks, made in Prizren, while women in our group, fatally, lost in the shops.
In this part, surrounded by red flags with the two-headed eagle and the ever-present flags stars and stripes ... maybe in honor of the father of the Kosovar Albanians, Serbs and Albanians ... Bill Clinton seem to live today. And cars that pass, the new Kosovo Albanian number plates, number plates of the old Serbian Kosovo with Serbian number plates or registration plates of Serbia without license plates, because registered somewhere and somehow ... or simply because they are unmarked taxi, and through continuous bridges on the IBA does not want to risk too ... cars passing him to confirm.
It would instinctively go the other way, the Albanian, but the thing is considered risky and should be avoided. Strange, though, or maybe not ... that Serbs can not go the other way, crossing bridges on IBA, as here, on the contrary, the Albanians live and do business!
But so is, and is confirmed by what happened a few days ago when a group of Serbs, to visit the Serbian Orthodox cemetery in the south, he needed an armed escort that did not prevent, however, to let them insult distance during the visit to the cemetery, largely destroyed by the racist violence of Kosovo Albanians. Strange too, or maybe not ... seen in the northern part of Mitrovica, the Muslim cemetery intact and free to receive visitors.
Unable to go more in Decani, where a church service celebrating the holy founder was extraordinary, we go to visit a nearby monastery, that of Sokol, located on the side of the bridge, so to speak, in the Mitrovica Serbs as well.
Unable to go more in Decani, where a church service celebrating the holy founder was extraordinary, we go to visit a nearby monastery, that of Sokol, located on the side of the bridge, so to speak, in the Mitrovica Serbs as well.
few kilometers uphill and we find ourselves next to an Albanian village, well maintained and refurbished to see built in an old stone house, a school attended by children of the Albanian village. It seems to be the birthplace of Isa Shala "Boletín ," Kosovo Albanian hero who lived between the late 800 and early 900, the forerunner of independent Kosovo and named "Hero of Kosovo " by Ibrahim Rugova in 2004.
Doubts, stories of the Serbian, the heroism of the Boletin, a native of Mitrovica, make a man expert in the " resolution" of disputes between Albanian clans. They say it was talking to him when it was intended, after a rude now, do "justice", killing one of another clan.
Then, the case of hired assassin, hired murderess hero or champion of a Greater Albania Dov
and bring together the Kosovo ethnically cleansed by the Serbs? Not even to posterity,
now ... But the really amazing, or maybe not ... is that in this small monastery, run by nuns, a statue of the Madonna and child (Sokol is the only Orthodox monastery to exhibit inside a statue, although it seems there is another from the parts of Prizren, in Orahovac, Kosovo's south, towards the border between Albania and Macedonia) is worshiped and venerated mainly by Albanian women with fertility problems , gift items in silver and gold to receive the grace of pregnancy. This is one of the reasons why he was spared from the violence that resulted in the destruction of over 150 Orthodox monasteries, between June 1999 and 17 March 2004. After
saw for myself the artistic qualities of these nuns, who are frescoing the interior of the church, their ability to cultivate vegetable garden, it's time to return. On the road we meet
directions to other monasteries, and Studenica Gradac among all. It will be for another time. We stop
mo for a coffee in the great castle of Maglic and memories come to mind.
I leave the good company in Kraljevo, which is the street where I have to fulfill certain commitments, but not morally required (and emotionally ....) Indispensable.
Time is really short, so I visit only some of those families where it is instinctive now, feel at home. I receive invitations to upcoming birthdays of former girls now eighteen (Tanja Vukovic, of which taste delicious croissants prepared in the school they attend), to extend invitations to friends, with exchanges of promises agreements ... and fettuccine against cancellation of tears by a painting!
They meet once opened and prey of the future, but also tired faces and prey to anguish.
Doubts, stories of the Serbian, the heroism of the Boletin, a native of Mitrovica, make a man expert in the " resolution" of disputes between Albanian clans. They say it was talking to him when it was intended, after a rude now, do "justice", killing one of another clan.
Then, the case of hired assassin, hired murderess hero or champion of a Greater Albania Dov
and bring together the Kosovo ethnically cleansed by the Serbs? Not even to posterity, now ... But the really amazing, or maybe not ... is that in this small monastery, run by nuns, a statue of the Madonna and child (Sokol is the only Orthodox monastery to exhibit inside a statue, although it seems there is another from the parts of Prizren, in Orahovac, Kosovo's south, towards the border between Albania and Macedonia) is worshiped and venerated mainly by Albanian women with fertility problems , gift items in silver and gold to receive the grace of pregnancy. This is one of the reasons why he was spared from the violence that resulted in the destruction of over 150 Orthodox monasteries, between June 1999 and 17 March 2004. After
saw for myself the artistic qualities of these nuns, who are frescoing the interior of the church, their ability to cultivate vegetable garden, it's time to return. On the road we meet
directions to other monasteries, and Studenica Gradac among all. It will be for another time. We stop
mo for a coffee in the great castle of Maglic and memories come to mind. I leave the good company in Kraljevo, which is the street where I have to fulfill certain commitments, but not morally required (and emotionally ....) Indispensable.
Time is really short, so I visit only some of those families where it is instinctive now, feel at home. I receive invitations to upcoming birthdays of former girls now eighteen (Tanja Vukovic, of which taste delicious croissants prepared in the school they attend), to extend invitations to friends, with exchanges of promises agreements ... and fettuccine against cancellation of tears by a painting!
They meet once opened and prey of the future, but also tired faces and prey to anguish.
children with hopes of growth in the eye, university, work and life, fathers and mothers with resigned looks increasingly incapable and inadequate to deal with everyday reality, made up of disappointments, bitter pills, humiliation, half the work, low-paid, if and when , paid.
remains the usual alternation of energy and exhaustion, joy and sadness, smiles and tears.
only truth ... the coach of one and a half at night, where I'll try to sleep, from Kraljevo will take me to Belgrade, where he awaits me at six forty plane I will return to Rome and then to my place of work. A few hours later the magic of Decani and Pec, Mitrovica and the contradictions of Sokol, the atmosphere of the castle and Maglic ... those of Kraljevo. But the days off are almost finished and I can not pass them all in Serbia. And that's really a shame.
remains the usual alternation of energy and exhaustion, joy and sadness, smiles and tears.
only truth ... the coach of one and a half at night, where I'll try to sleep, from Kraljevo will take me to Belgrade, where he awaits me at six forty plane I will return to Rome and then to my place of work. A few hours later the magic of Decani and Pec, Mitrovica and the contradictions of Sokol, the atmosphere of the castle and Maglic ... those of Kraljevo. But the days off are almost finished and I can not pass them all in Serbia. And that's really a shame.
